LEARNING CENTER · Sump Pumps
Why isn't my sump pump working (or running constantly)?
The short answer
A sump pump that won't run and one that never shuts off are opposite problems with a short list of causes each. If it's dead-silent, start with power — a tripped GFCI, an unplugged pump, or a stuck float switch cover most cases. If it runs constantly, the usual culprits are a stuck float holding it "on," a check valve that lets water fall back in, a pump that's undersized for the water coming in, or simply a very wet Louisville week overwhelming it. A couple of these you can check yourself in five minutes before you call anyone.
Your sump pump sits quietly in a pit in the basement floor doing nothing 95% of the year — until the day a storm rolls through and it's the only thing between you and a flooded basement. So it makes sense that people notice it exactly when it acts up. The two ways it goes wrong are opposite: it won't run when it should, or it runs and runs and won't stop. Here's how to tell what you're looking at, and what's safe to check yourself first.
If it's not running at all
A pump that sits silent in a pit full of water is the one that scares people, but the cause is usually simple and often free to fix. Work down this list.
- Check the power first Most sump pumps plug into a nearby outlet — often a GFCI. If that outlet tripped, the pump's dead and you may not know it. Press the reset button on the outlet, and make sure the plug is fully seated. This alone solves a surprising share of "dead pump" calls.
- A stuck float switch The float is what tells the pump to turn on as water rises. If it's wedged against the pit wall, tangled in the cord, or gunked up, it never trips and the pump never starts. Gently free it and make sure it can rise and fall cleanly.
- The pump is clogged or seized Grit, gravel, and sludge settle in the pit and can jam the impeller. If there's power and the float moves freely but it still won't run, the motor or impeller may be shot — that's a repair-or-replace call.
- It's just old Sump pumps aren't forever. Most run somewhere in the neighborhood of 7 to 10 years, and a pump that quietly died of age is common. If yours is past that and won't start, replacement is usually the honest answer — a standard sump-pump swap with a fresh check valve runs $800–$900.
If it runs constantly and won't shut off
A pump that never rests is burning out its motor and running up your electric bill. Sometimes it's a real problem, and sometimes it's just doing its job during a wet stretch.
- A stuck float holding it "on" Same float, opposite problem — if it's jammed in the up position, the pump thinks the pit is always full and never stops. Check that it drops all the way down when the water's low.
- A bad or missing check valve The check valve on the discharge pipe keeps pumped-out water from flowing back into the pit. If it's failed or was never installed, every cycle dumps water right back in, so the pump immediately runs again. This is one of the most common reasons for constant cycling — replacing the check valve runs $100–$200, a small fix compared to a new pump.
- The pump is undersized If your pit refills faster than the pump can clear it, it'll run flat-out and still struggle. Homes in wetter parts of Louisville sometimes need a higher-capacity pump than what came with the house.
- A lot of water is actually coming in Here's the honest one: during a heavy Louisville spring storm or a fast thaw, a healthy pump running often is normal — that's exactly what it's there for. Constant running for a day during a downpour isn't a broken pump. Constant running on a dry week is.
- A frozen or blocked discharge line If the line that carries water outside is frozen in winter or clogged, water can't leave, so the pump keeps cycling against a wall. Check that the outside discharge point is clear and draining.
Check these yourself before you call
A few of these are genuinely a five-minute, no-cost check. Try them first — you might not need us at all:
- Pour a bucket of water in the pit The simplest test there is. Slowly pour water in until the float rises. A healthy pump kicks on, clears the pit, and shuts off. If it does all three, your pump is fine. If nothing happens, go back to the power and float checks above.
- Reset the GFCI outlet Before assuming the worst, find the outlet the pump is plugged into and press reset. A tripped outlet is the single most common reason a sump pump goes silent, and it costs nothing to rule out.
- Make sure it's actually plugged in It sounds too simple, but pumps get bumped, and "piggyback" float plugs can work loose. Confirm the plug is fully in before you spend a dime.
How we'd approach it
When we come out, we test the pump the same way you would — we run it with real water, watch the float, and check the check valve and discharge line before we ever talk about replacing anything. If it's a $0 float adjustment or a cleaned-out pit, we'll tell you that. If the motor's cooked or the pump's aged out, we'll walk you through options, and this is one place we usually bring up a battery backup — because the storms that flood basements are exactly the ones that knock out power, and a pump with no power is no pump at all. A backup pump with its own battery runs $2,000–$2,200. What it costs overall depends on the pump, the pit, and whether you add backup, so we give you a real number on site. Want a ballpark first? Ask Goldie can size it up.
Common questions we get
Is a sump pump problem an emergency?
It depends on the weather. A dead pump on a dry, sunny week is worth a prompt appointment but you have time. A dead pump with a storm in the forecast, or water already rising in the pit, is a same-day call — that's the exact scenario a sump pump exists for. If your basement is actively taking on water, treat it as urgent.
How long should a sump pump last?
Most last somewhere around 7 to 10 years, though a pump that runs hard through wet Louisville springs may wear out sooner. If yours is in that range and starting to act up, it's often smarter to replace it on your schedule than to gamble on it failing mid-storm.
Why does my sump pump run even when it hasn't rained?
A few reasons. In parts of Louisville the water table stays high enough that groundwater seeps in regardless of rain. But frequent dry-weather cycling more often points to a stuck float or a failed check valve letting water fall back into the pit — both fixable. If it truly never stops on a dry week, have it looked at before the motor burns out.
Do I need a battery backup sump pump?
If a flooded basement would be a real problem for you, it's worth strongly considering — because power outages and heavy storms tend to arrive together, and a primary pump is useless without electricity. It's not required for everyone, but for finished basements or homes that have flooded before, it's cheap peace of mind.
The next questions to ask
Not sure if your pump is broken or just working hard?
Ask Goldie walks you through the checks in a couple of minutes and tells you whether it's a five-minute fix or worth a call before a storm hits. Try it at goldenplumbingky.com/instant-estimate/